A Simple, Perfect Roast

Recently we’ve taken to having a roast on the first Sunday of each month, when we’re all extra hungry for dinner and ready for something soothing, warm, and filling. This recipe hails from our friends the Gublers when they were living in a predominantly Jewish neighborhood and learned they could get brisket on sale on Saturdays. They started making a weekly roast with the meat. We’ve changed the recipe a bit and changed the preparation from oven to slow cooker, but we’ll ever be grateful to the Gublers and their neighbors for the original inspiration of slow-simmered roast with carrots and onions.

This is a very good roast. The carrots are a favorite of mine (Amelia); they get soft and succulent from the dripping meaty juices. In combination with the warm meat, it’s to die for. We love serving this with a slice of good bread to soak up the juices.

 A Perfect, Simple Roast

 

2 medium to large onions, quartered

10 long carrots, cut into thick coins or diagonals (around 1 1/2 pounds, although the amount isn’t important. You could also use baby carrots for ease, they’re just a little less attractive imo)

Chunk of butter*

2­–4 pounds rump roast or brisket, depending on your needs

Salt (around two teaspoons, but a bit more if the roast is over two pounds)

1 cup red wine*

2 tablespoons tomato paste (3 if the roast is over 3 pounds)

4 cloves garlic, smashed and peeled but left whole

pepper

Place onions into the slow cooker, followed by most of the carrots.

Heat a large sauté pan (large enough to hold the roast) on the stove over medium-high heat. Melt butter on the hot pan, then add the meat to brown for a few minutes on its side. Brown another side or two, in the same manner. Salt it generously on different sides as it cook. Then move the roast into the slow cooker, setting it on top of the carrots and onions.

Pour wine into the hot sauté pan to deglaze, stirring up any meat bits left from the roast. Then add the tomato paste and let it melt in the hot wine. Pour the liquid over the roast, toss in the garlic cloves, then cook on low for 8 hours or high for 1 1/2 and low for 5-6.

Although we usually eat this with a slice of good bread, as mentioned above, it’s also very good over egg noodles. Sometimes we slice it, as in the photos here, but other times we pull it apart with forks into large chunks.

*As for the butter, one of the best cooks I know, a tall robust, and elegant woman with black hair and bright blue eyes from Azerbaijan, taught me that red meat always tastes better cooked with butter than with oil. I don’t cook a lot of red meat, and when I do the dish doesn’t always accommodate her advice. But it does here and I wanted to pass it along.

*We know very little about alcohol, so at the liquor store we ask an employee for help, explaining we need a red wine for cooking a roast in the range of 7 or 8 dollars. Please don’t use cooking wine—it will taste terrible. We’ve wondered about making this with grape or cranberry juice—let us know if you try.

The Best Banana Bread

I’ve (Amelia) loved banana bread my whole life. I remember being eleven and eating almost an entire loaf, my mom being shocked, and me feeling like I could still go for more. Given a proper incentive, I’m sure I could still pull it off today. Our banana bread is the best of its kind. Whenever I stray and try a new recipe it’s not the same.

Why is it the best? A combination of butter and coconut oil gives this sweetbread the perfect flavor profile, so it’s moist, sweet, and perfectly balanced. Feel free to skip the chocolate, but also please don’t. And, if you’re feeling like a real treat, we highly recommend banana bread sundaes.

We learned to turn banana bread into a dessert sundae at Sacco’s Bowl Haven in Somerville, MA.

Banana Bread

Makes 2 loaves

• 2 eggs

• 5 bananas

• 1/2 cup butter

• 1/2 cup coconut oil or shortening

• 2 cups sugar

• 4 cups flour

• 2 teaspoons soda

• 2 teaspoons salt

• 1 cup chocolate chips or diced dried apricots, or a combination of both (all optional)

Slice the butter cube in half and put half in each of the two bread pans. Place in the oven for the butter to melt while you heat the oven to 325°. This will not only grease the pan, but also brown the butter a bit, for a little extra wonderful flavor.  

Whisk together the flour, soda, and salt. Peel and smash the bananas with a potato masher.

Beat together the butter, coconut oil or shortening, and sugar for a minute or two until fluffy and thoroughly mixed. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing thoroughly after each. Stir in the banana, then stir in the dry ingredients, but only until some white streaks still remain. Add the chocolate chips or apricots, if desired, and finish stirring so that the batter has a uniform texture.

 Divide the batter between two pans smoothing the tops a bit, and bake for 65 to 70 minutes. Let sit for 10 minutes, then remove from pans to finish cooling on a cooling rack.

We love to eat this simply sliced, or sliced and toasted, or with ice cream and hot fudge sauce, like a brownie sundae with a twist.

Banana bread and hot chocolate for a heavenly 4 pm snack.

Sourdough Granola Bars

Granola bars used to be my (Amelia’s) all time favorite food, but these days, I find them a little too stale and a little too sweet. I tried to solve this problem with homemade granola bars, but the recipes I’ve tried thus far have either been 1) too sweet, 2) complete structural disasters, or 3), both.

Just after I’d given up hope and wished my granola bar days goodbye, my Gia introduced us to sourdough granola bars. The idea enticed us and we knew we had to try them. To my delight, they were the granola bar I’d been looking for. They have a wonderful flavor and stick together easily. After some tweaking, we had a new favorite granola bar, perfect for after-school snacks.

Yes, you need a sourdough starter. But - the rest of the recipe is very simple, and we know many people have been experimenting with sourdough recently, so if there’s ever a time to use starter without much effort, this is it. Literally just mix everything together and bake it. I promise, you can do it.

Sourdough Granola Bars

• 1 cup whole pecans, toasted and cooled

• 2 cups rolled oats

• 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

• 1/3 cup pumpkin seeds/pepitas

• 1/3 cup dried fruit (we especially like dried figs, cherries, and a few golden raisins)

• 1/2 cup chocolate chips

• 1/3 cup maple syrup

• 1 cup sourdough starter

Take sourdough start out of the fridge and preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease an 8 x 8 inch baking dish.

Toast the pecans (we do so at 350 in our toaster oven) in the oven for 7-10 minutes, until their color has deepened and they are fragrant. Set aside to cool.

Put oats, salt, pepitas, dried fruit, and chocolate chips in a medium bowl and stir to combine. Once the pecans have cooled, chop them and add them to the bowl (it’s important to give them time to cool, both to give the oils time to settle and to avoid melting the chocolate chips). Stir in the maple syrup and sourdough starter with a spatula until well combined (you might have to fight with the starter a little bit, but keep stirring and it will work out).

Pour the mixture into the prepared pan and bake at 350 degrees for 20 minutes. Let cool completely in pan (this is important for easy cutting), then transfer the bars to a cutting board and cut into desired sizes.

Chocolate-less: If you prefer a lighter snack, omit the chocolate chips and increase the dried fruit to 1/2 cup.

Millet: Add 1/3 cup millet to the dry ingredients, if you have it on hand.

Old-Fashioned Oatmeal

When I (Kate) first lived in Russia as a twenty-year old, I had an older roommate from the Ukraine who made us oatmeal every morning for breakfast. Ludmila Romanina was her name, and during the few months we lived together she took on oatmeal as a challenge. Had she lived in Brookline, Massachusetts during those early years of Cooks’ Illustrated magazine, I’m certain a symbiotic relationship would have flourished. As it was, she planted an understanding in my heart that oatmeal had considerable potential in terms of flavor and texture worth even more than its offering of sound nutrition.    

Amelia’s bowl

Preparing oatmeal is easy, but the many approaches out there can be misleading. Made with water as the only liquid, you deprive yourself of any creaminess. Using only milk, the resulting richness overwhelms the oats’ chew and delicate flavor. Omit salt and you’ll understand why some people consider oatmeal slop—it’s the equivalent of abducting the poor oats and asking them to communicate with scarves stuffed inside their little mouths.

 The following recipe will get your oatmeal just exactly where it needs to be, freeing you to experiment with toppings—from a simple spoonful of jam to more elaborate glories. On vacation, weekends, or if we awaken five minutes early enough on a weekday, we adorn the oatmeal with granola and, depending on the season, fresh or canned fruit, a spoonful of nut butter, dried currants or cherries, a sprinkle of nuts, muesli—really, the potential combinations are so stimulating you can work yourself into a state. And we have—it’s a state called bliss. 

Mom’s bowl

Old-fashioned Oatmeal

Serves 2 or 3

• 1 cup rolled oats (aka Old-fashioned oats)

• 1 cup milk (of your choice)

• 1 cup water

• 1/2 teaspoon salt

• Brown sugar, to taste

Place oats, milk, water, and salt in a saucepan. Turn heat to medium-high, bring to a simmer, then turn heat to medium low or low, to maintain a simmer but prevent boiling. Simmer, stirring occasionally, for 5 to 10 minutes. Remove from heat and add sweetener (I like brown sugar; Amelia prefers it without; it’s also good with honey or maple syrup).

If you are serving the oatmeal in a fairly plain way, these quantities make two satisfying servings. On a busy morning where timing-wise the choice to squeeze in oatmeal was a bit dangerous, we’ll top it with a spoonful of jam and be perfectly content.

Lemon Blueberry Oven Pancake

Happy blueberry season everyone!

To celebrate blueberries’ arrival, I (Amelia) thought we should all make a giant pancake. I adapted this from Mel’s Kitchen Cafe, adding lemon and vanilla, swapping the white sugar for brown, and using kosher salt instead of table for a more present flavor. The result was a perfect weekend breakfast, one that does not require individual flipping, scooping, and burning and feeling bad about yourself because you can’t even get pancakes right. Instead, you can enjoy the weekend with something delicious and simple.

Lemon Blueberry Oven Pancake

Serves 5 

• 3 tablespoons butter, melted

• 3/4 cup (3.75 ounces) regular whole wheat flour

• 3/4 cup (3.75 ounces) all-purpose flour

• 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

• 1/2 teaspoon baking soda

• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

• 1 tablespoon packed brown sugar

• Zest of 1/2 medium lemon

• 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

• 1 1/4 cups buttermilk

• 1 large egg

• 1 1/2 cups blueberries

• White sugar, for sprinkling

Heat the oven to 350 degrees, melt the butter in a medium bowl (doing this earlier will give it time to cool before it meets the egg), and grease a 9x 13-inch baking pan.

Mix the flours, baking powder, baking soda, and kosher salt together in a large bowl. Whisk the brown sugar into the melted butter in a medium bowl, followed by the lemon zest, vanilla, buttermilk, and egg. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry and stir with a spatula until just combined. Carefully dot the batter in blobs with the spatula over the pan (pouring it all in at once will make it much trickier to get an even layer) - it’s VERY thin! It will make you a little nervous, but just do your best to get all of the surface area covered and trust in the power of leaveners. Sprinkle the blueberries on top, followed by about 1/2 tablespoon of white sugar, and bake in the oven for 10-15 minutes. Serve warm with your favorite syrup!

Chocolate chip oven pancake: Replace the blueberries with 1 cup of chocolate chips and omit the lemon zest, sprinkling the chocolate chips on and baking it just like the original.

I would try to eat this within the first day. Leftovers look a little sad, though toasting helps.